From field to fiber: The journey of linen
The journey of linen doesn't begin in a noisy factory, but in the wide, tranquil fields of temperate climates. Particularly in the so-called "linen belt" of Western Europe, stretching from Normandy in France through Belgium to the Netherlands, the flax plant finds ideal conditions to develop its unique fibers. The subsequent manufacturing process is a legacy of centuries-old tradition – elaborate, time-consuming, but infinitely worthwhile, as every step contributes to the distinctive character of the final fabric.
Harvesting, or pulling, is the first act of respect for the flax plant. Instead of simply cutting the flax stalks, they are carefully pulled from the ground along with their roots. This is the only way to obtain the maximum fiber length, which is crucial for the yarn's tensile strength and quality. The pulled plants are then stacked in bundles, called "stacks," in the field to dry – a scene that has characterized rural Europe for centuries.
Next comes the retting process, which seems almost magical. The dried stalks are left to lie in the field for weeks (dew retting) and exposed to the natural effects of dew, rain, and sun. Microorganisms gently break down the pectins that bind the valuable linen fibers to the woody core of the stalk. It is a slow, natural fermentation process that is crucial for the quality of the fiber and gives linen its characteristic, earthy scent.
Once the fibers are separated, the mechanical refining process begins. During breakage, the dried, brittle stems are broken by rollers, causing the woody parts, the "shives," to fall away. What remains are the raw, still disordered bundles of fibers. These are then pulled through increasingly finer needle combs during hackling. This process cleans, parallelizes, and separates the short from the long fibers until only silky, lustrous strands of pure linen remain – the "gold of linen."
Only now, after all these meticulous preparatory steps, does the actual spinning of these golden fibers into a robust, smooth yarn begin. This yarn is then woven by skilled weavers into the fabric we cherish so much – with its characteristic, vibrant texture and unparalleled feel. This time-honored process is not only an impressive display of craftsmanship but also a model of sustainability. The flax plant requires significantly less water and pesticides than cotton, for example, and is completely biodegradable. It is this elaborate yet deeply respectful journey from root to finished fabric that makes linen one of the most precious and authentic materials in our wardrobes.
