Suede Season: What is suede – and why are we wearing it now?
What is suede? Suede is a type of leather with a velvety, roughened surface, created by sanding the flesh side or a specific layer of the hide, giving the material its characteristic soft feel. In fashion, the English term "suede" is frequently used; it differs from smooth leather primarily due to its open, velvety surface structure. Particularly in jackets, trousers, dresses, loafers, pumps, and boots, suede adds depth and a matte texture to a look—a reason why suede is currently reappearing more frequently in autumn collections and street style.
Suede, nubuck, buckskin, and smooth leather are often equated, but they do not refer to the same thing. Suede describes a roughened leather surface, whereas nubuck is finely sanded on the grain side—the original outer side of the hide—resulting in a usually shorter, finer nap; smooth leather, on the other hand, has a smooth or only slightly roughened surface. Strictly speaking, the term "buckskin" (Wildleder) refers to the animal species and denotes leather from wild animals such as deer or roe deer—buckskin can be processed to look like suede, but it is not a synonym for it. This distinction is particularly relevant for care and use, as open-pored, roughened surfaces can be more sensitive to moisture, grease, and dirt than many types of smooth leather.
Why is suede relevant again now? Current collections are increasingly incorporating natural, tactile surfaces, earthy tones, and Western or boho references; at the same time, suede works well with both fitted silhouettes and softly draped, more casual shapes. At Stouls and Jitrois, leather has traditionally been more central to ready-to-wear pieces such as trousers, dresses, and jackets, while labels like Isabel Marant and R13 combine suede and buckskin particularly cohesively with Western and vintage influences. In footwear, Paris Texas, Stuart Weitzman, Ash, Birkenstock, Doucal’s, Monmare, and Lemargo demonstrate just how varied the effect of the material can be—from feminine pumps and loafers to striking boots. Suede is therefore not aimed at one specific style type, but is suitable for anyone who wants to work consciously with materials, surfaces, and tone-on-tone combinations.
How to correctly identify, combine, and care for suede
How does suede clothing fit, and does the material stretch with wear?
Genuine leather can adapt slightly over time due to body heat and movement, but the actual fit depends heavily on the thickness of the leather, the cut, the lining, and the craftsmanship. Therefore, you should not choose a size that is too small with the expectation that the garment will stretch significantly. For suede trousers and close-fitting dresses, the hip, waist, and freedom of movement are particularly important, while for jackets, you should also consider whether knitwear or other layers will be worn underneath. With suede shoes, the last and construction are more decisive than the upper material alone, which is why model-specific sizing for boots, pumps, and loafers provides more reliable guidance.
How should you properly care for suede?
Dust and light dry dirt can be carefully removed with a special suede or crepe brush; the material should not be rubbed vigorously. An impregnation spray suitable for suede or nubuck leather can help protect against moisture and dirt, but it should always be tested on an inconspicuous area first and used according to the manufacturer's instructions. Allow wet suede to dry at room temperature – not on a radiator or under direct heat – and then carefully restore the nap with a suitable brush. Conventional shoe polish, leather grease, or care products for smooth leather are generally unsuitable for suede because they can clog the open surface and visibly alter both the color and texture.
How do you wear suede today?
Suede looks particularly sharp when its texture becomes the focus of the look: a suede jacket paired with denim or fine knitwear, suede trousers with a minimalist top, or suede boots and loafers as a structured counterpoint to flowing fabrics. Brown, cognac, taupe, beige, and dark natural tones emphasize the typical effect of the material, while monochrome combinations can help distinguish between different surfaces – such as suede, wool, and smooth leather. The current suede season should therefore be understood less as a short-lived trend and more as the return of a material that shapes jackets, dresses, trousers, heels, loafers, and boots in very different ways. Anyone who knows the difference between suede, deerskin/wild leather, nubuck, and smooth leather and correctly cares for each surface can judge materials, workmanship, and intended use much more accurately.
Frequently Asked Questions about Suede
What is suede?
Suede is leather with a velvety, roughened surface. Its characteristic soft texture is created by roughening or sanding the flesh side or a corresponding layer of the leather. In an international fashion context, suede is often referred to as suede.
What is the difference between suede and wild leather?
Suede and wild leather are not the same thing. "Velours" (suede) refers to the type of surface treatment, whereas wild leather strictly refers to leather from wild animals such as deer or roe deer. Wild leather can be processed to look like suede, but not every suede is wild leather.
What is the difference between suede and nubuck?
The essential difference lies in which side of the leather is treated. Nubuck is finely sanded on the grain side—the original outer side of the hide—and usually has a short, fine nap. With suede, the flesh side or a corresponding leather layer is roughened, which often makes the surface appear softer and distinctly more velvety.
How do you properly care for and clean suede?
Suede should be cleaned dry using a special suede or crepe brush. An impregnation spray suitable for suede can provide additional protection against moisture and dirt. Leather grease and classic shoe polish for smooth leather should not be used, as they can alter the nap and thus the typical surface of the material.
Can suede get wet?
Suede can tolerate light moisture, but should ideally not be soaked. If a suede jacket or shoe gets wet, the material should be allowed to dry slowly at room temperature, away from radiators or other direct heat sources. Once dry, the nap can be carefully raised again using a suitable suede brush.
Highlights of the week
Suede Season: The Velour Comeback
HERITAGE STYLE – FASHION WITH TRADITION
Silk – the gold among textiles